Remanufactured Marine Engines

Following on from my previous question about removing the engine from my boat without taking off outdrive. Audition tips from both ends of the spectrum with roughly a 50/50 or a way to remove the engine, I took notes on the removal of the engine without taking out the outdrive. It can be done with an interior completely removed, however, removing the outdrive was as easy as in the answers staed and I needed to replace the wheel anyway, so thanks to everyone for the tips!

Now my next question kindaof complicated I think, but I'll try to explain as best I can.

Ford 351 Windsor Block, seized during their withdrawal from the boat, so I started to decompose to see where the problem was. Deletion of the varieties, risers, intake manifold, heads and all the rusty bolts on the mess. Seeing the walls of the cylinder had minor rust along the walls, I thought it was a good place to start. Using the great PB and Brillo pad soft, I gently removed the rust from the surface of a cylinder at a time during the two days to soak in. PB perseverance has paid off, the engine is now unseized and rotataing. Come and discover it was an engine rebuilt with a red label on it and a number (perhaps someone knows who uses a red Reman. Tag with a number engraved on the inside and could share this info ), so I guess the ISN motor "t as old as I was told.

My question is: Should I continue to break the engine and have worked and clean or should I start back in the other direction, now that it is Turing again? I plan to soak the engine with diesel / oil mixture in tomorrow to get all the remaining pieces of rust and debris from the bottle and pot. I cleaned the pistons pretty good so far, but I will go back to them later. Rehoning the cylinder walls a good start if I did not break the bottom end?

I appreciate the comments and if someone is willing to share additional help and information, please feel free to send me an email directly and I would love thewindowshopper2008@yahoo.com views of experts on this point. I plan on getting pictures of his current status shortly.

Time to put everything together is over. Your only looking at another day for the Pistons on the bench and "really" clean the ring grooves and get a full upgrade on all cylinders .-- This action allows you one free look at the bearings and shaft if they look mint, you can let them get away with the sector alone. (And the chain of distribution / CAM).

Keep everything in order if the levator even back to the same bore and even with the pistons.

If you do not micrometers dear, you can set the permissions on the 0.001 shim stock brass. (Cut into 1 / 4 and band means side under the landing in piles until you feel a drag strip and then count it and many of which release bearing.) You can then carefully (with a little oil), rotate the stem (with 0001 clearance) around her newspaper and said if the rod is out of the round. It is a long process and precision, but that is a very long engine running. These bearings are available in more than minor size. (Called "two by two, since 0002 over 0001 businesses and over sized)-and do not think the manufacturer of bearings may have a new bearing clearance 0003. Just did not work.

Put your head gaskets on dry navy. Use grease applied to the threads of the bolt head, do not put in the holes .. and get a couple of very pleasant.

If your traps are full of rust, you can leave them overnight in hydrochloric acid (pool cleaner) and they come out shining in the morning and get a free look at the internal fissures and thin surfaces .

If you put everything together, it does re perfect - these rings do not seat twice.

Inspect the water pump on t.